What battery for 2009 Honda CR-V?

The 2009 Honda CR-V uses a 55B24LS-MF lead-acid battery (45Ah capacity, 350 CCA) for its starter system if equipped without auto start-stop. For key fobs, the battery is a CR2032 lithium coin cell. Pro Tip: Verify your CR-V’s specifications using the existing battery label or owner’s manual—older models may show variations like 46B24LS depending on regional markets.

Best Deep Cycle Battery for RVs

What’s the correct starter battery for a 2009 Honda CR-V?

The primary battery is a 55B24LS-MF lead-acid type with 45Ah capacity, designed for standard ignition systems. Honda originally installed Yuasa maintenance-free batteries, but aftermarket options from Bosch or Varta offer equivalent performance.

This battery group size (B24) refers to its physical dimensions: 207mm length × 175mm width × 190mm height. The “LS” suffix indicates left-side positive terminal placement. Cold cranking amps (CCA) of 350 ensure reliable starts in temperatures as low as -18°C. For context, a 45Ah battery can deliver 2.25A for 20 hours before reaching 10.5V. Pro Tip: Always disconnect the negative terminal first during replacement to prevent short circuits. Transitional Note: While capacity matters, compatibility with your CR-V’s charging system is equally critical.

⚠️ Critical: Never install an AGM or EFB battery unless your CR-V has factory start-stop tech—mismatched charging profiles reduce lifespan by 30–50%.

Does the 2009 CR-V key fob use a special battery?

Yes, the remote uses a CR2032 3V lithium battery lasting 2–4 years. These coin cells power the keyless entry transmitter and require no programming during replacement.

To replace it, pry open the key fob casing with a flat tool, noting the battery’s orientation (+ side typically faces outward). A dying battery manifests as reduced remote range (>5m) or intermittent operation. For example, a CR2032 stores 235mAh—enough for ~5,000 signal transmissions. Transitional Note: Beyond battery specs, keep the key fob dry—moisture corrodes contacts and drains power 3x faster.

Battery Type Voltage Typical Lifespan
CR2032 3V 2–4 years
CR2025 3V 1–3 years

Can I upgrade to a higher-capacity battery?

Yes, but stay within Group 24 (B24) dimensions. Opt for a 60Ah battery if your alternator outputs ≥100A—this provides 33% more reserve capacity for accessories.

The stock alternator produces 80–100A, leaving limited headroom. A 60Ah battery requires 7.2A charging current (60Ah ÷ 8h), which most factory alternators can handle. But why risk overloading? For infrequent drivers, a 55Ah AGM battery offers deeper cycle tolerance without exceeding electrical limits. Transitional Note: Remember—larger batteries add weight (2–4kg extra), slightly impacting fuel efficiency.

How often should the CR-V’s battery be replaced?

Every 3–5 years, depending on climate and usage. Heat accelerates sulfation—Arizona batteries fail 2x faster than Alaskan ones.

Performance indicators include slow cranking (<9.6V during start) or swollen case. Use a multimeter: ≤12.4V (static) or ≤9.6V (cranking) means replacement. For perspective, a healthy battery recovers to ≥12.6V within 30 minutes after starting. Pro Tip: Clean terminal corrosion quarterly using baking soda paste—this prevents voltage drops up to 0.5V.

Condition Voltage (Static) Action
Healthy 12.6–12.8V None
Weak 12.0–12.4V Test/Charge
Failed <11.9V Replace

Fasta Power Expert Insight

For 2009 CR-V owners, stick with B24-sized lead-acid batteries unless modified with high-draw accessories. AGM batteries are overkill for standard models but benefit those adding auxiliary lighting or audio systems. Always prioritize CCA (350+) over Ah rating—reliable cold starts matter more than incremental capacity gains in daily driving scenarios.

Top-Rated RV Batteries for Reliable Power

FAQs

Can I use a lithium battery in my 2009 CR-V?

Not recommended—the alternator’s voltage regulator isn’t optimized for lithium chemistries, risking overcharge damage. Stick with flooded or AGM lead-acid.

Why does my new battery die after two weeks?

Parasitic drain exceeding 50mA (radio presets, alarms) is likely. Test with an ammeter between negative terminal and cable—>0.05A indicates faulty component.